Printed from the road · Established MMXXVI

FieldNotes

Vol. INo. 07·Saturday 25 July MMXXVI·A Cavale Publication

Travel reading from the Cavale editors and the people we work with — written from the road, never from a desk.

The Lead Pieces
Long Read · This Issue

Why We Keep Going Back to Hong Kong

Hong Kong is the rare city worth visiting twice. The food density (Tim Ho Wan, Australian Dairy Company, wonton noodles at Mak's), the vertical city…

by Alexander Adams·25 July 2026
01/03Featured this issue
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Recent

34 pieces · JUL MMXXVI

Long Read

Why We Keep Going Back to Hong Kong

Hong Kong is the rare city worth visiting twice. The food density (Tim Ho Wan, Australian Dairy Company, wonton noodles at Mak's), the…

25 July 2026

Long Read

Best Coffee Shops in Every City We've Visited: The Running List

The running list across 14 cities: Bangalore (Third Wave Coffee Roasters), Bangkok (Roots at The Commons), Barcelona (Nomad Coffee), Chania…

23 July 2026

Long Read

Motorcycle Rentals in Asia: Everything We've Learned in 9 Years

Nine years of motorcycle rentals across SE Asia: get a UK motorcycle licence before your first trip (the 200 baht bribe is fine, the crash…

21 July 2026
Lobby

Long Read

The Dogs at Dinner and the Doormen Who Knew Our Names

Three beds in Vietnam. The Phoenix Hotel in Ha Giang. A homestay on the loop where the host's dogs slept under the dinner table. The…

18 July 2026
Tea House

Long Read

Every Trip We Take Starts as a Google Doc

Every trip we take starts as a Google Doc that runs forty to eighty hours before we leave. Thesis, budget, itinerary, restaurant lists…

16 July 2026
temple

Review

The KTX Train from Seoul to Busan: A Bullet Train Review

The KTX from Seoul to Busan: 2 hours 42 minutes, no airport security, walk-on walk-off. Sit on the right for the Suwon rice-paddy corridor.…

14 July 2026
Villa

Review

Ten Friends, an Olive Oil Producer, and a Villa in Western Crete

For my 30th we rented a villa in the hills above Chania for four nights with ten friends. Two stone houses connected by a courtyard and a…

11 July 2026
Canal view

Review

The Hoxton Paris vs Amsterdam: Same Brand, Two Cities, One Winner

Two Hoxton stays compared. Paris in Sentier (€289/night, 18sqm Cosy room, DJ Friday, croissants included) and the Hoxton Lloyd in…

10 July 2026
beach

Review

How Getting PADI Certified Changed the Way I Travel

PADI Open Water in the UK costs £625 across two weekends: a pool day, then two half-days at Vobster Quay. Advanced Open Water in East Bali…

9 July 2026
Cruise view

Review

Halong Bay Cruise Review: We Paid £525, Here's What That Bought Us

An overnight cruise in Halong Bay. The kayak hour through limestone karsts at sunset was the best part. The cabin was hotel-quality. The…

7 July 2026
Loco Restaurant

Food

Lisbon Food Guide: Beyond Pastel de Nata

Six days of eating in Lisbon: Loco for the 15-course tasting menu (book six weeks ahead), Coelho da Rocha for bacalhau à brás, Café de São…

4 July 2026
Ruben Sandwich

Food

The Amsterdam Breakfast Crawl: Six Stops, One Morning

Six-stop Amsterdam breakfast crawl in five hours: Patisserie Kuyt for appelschnitt, Grammes for cured-fish toast on rye, Eetsalon van…

2 July 2026
Barceloa

Itinerary

A Long Weekend in Barcelona: Linda's Birthday Edition

Four days in Barcelona for a birthday. Sagrada Família at 3pm, a rented Vespa through the Eixample, Parc Güell from the upper gate, natural…

30 June 2026
Boat

Itinerary

El Nido to Coron by Boat: Four Days on a Palawan Bangka

A four-day, three-night liveaboard from El Nido to Coron on a wooden bangka outrigger. £450 per person all-inclusive: 20 passengers, tents…

25 June 2026
Sake Barrel

Itinerary

Japan by Train: Three Weeks from Tokyo to Okinawa

Three weeks in Japan: 7 nights in Tokyo (Tsuta ramen, the Ghibli Museum, Fox Village), a Hakone ryokan with kaiseki, 4 nights in Kyoto by…

23 June 2026
Hong Kong

Itinerary

Hong Kong and Vietnam in 18 Days: Budget to Luxury in One Trip

Eighteen days across Hong Kong and Vietnam: Tim Ho Wan, Dragon's Back, the Ha Giang motorcycle loop, an overnight Halong Bay cruise where…

18 June 2026
Tarsier

Itinerary

Three Weeks in Southeast Asia: Singapore, Philippines, Malaysia

Three countries, 23 days: Singapore for hawker centres, Cebu and Moalboal for the sardine run, Bohol for the Chocolate Hills, El Nido to…

16 June 2026
Lotus Temple

Itinerary

India for First-Timers: Bangalore to Goa in 16 Days

Sixteen days, five Indian cities: Bangalore for dosas at MTR, Delhi for Karim's mutton burra, Jaipur's Pink City and Amber Fort, the Taj…

11 June 2026
LX Factory
Belem

Day Trip

Belem in an Afternoon: Pasteis, Monasteries, and LX Factory

Belém is a 35-minute tram ride from central Lisbon on the 15E. Pastéis de Belém (sit in the back, skip the queue), Jerónimos Monastery…

9 June 2026
Food Stall

Food

Taipei Night Markets Ranked: Raohe, Shilin, Ningxia, Tonghua

Four Taipei night markets, ranked: 1. Raohe (pepper buns at Fuzhou Shi Zu, 25-minute queue, 60 NTD, the best street food bite in Taiwan),…

6 June 2026
Food Stall
Chiang Mai

Food

Chiang Mai Food Tour: A Walking Guide to the Old City's Best Eats

Chiang Mai's Old City is a 1.5km moated grid you can eat your way around in a day.Start at Khao Soi Khun Yai, walk the temples, eat sai oua…

4 June 2026
Wine Grapes
Porto

Day Trip

Douro Valley Day Trip from Porto: Three Wineries, One Unforgettable Afternoon

The Douro Valley is 80 minutes from Porto. The standout stop is Quinta das Carvalhas, where you taste six ports on a terrace overlooking…

2 June 2026
Food

Food

Bordeaux in Three Meals: SOIF, Baston, and Mets Mots

Three days in Bordeaux for a Valentine's weekend, told through three meals: SOIF bistronomy dinner (€68/person four-course tasting with…

28 May 2026
Food

Food

From Pad Thai to a Tasting Menu: How to Eat Bangkok in Six Days.

Six days of Bangkok street food: Thip Samai pad thai, boat noodles at Victory Monument, Krua Apsorn crab omelette, Yaowarat after dark.…

26 May 2026
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